Age is not a hair type. This is the reasoning a good stylist runs through in the first four minutes of a consultation, written down so you can run it yourself: your face shape, your frame and height, the hair you have now — and the exact sentence to say in the chair.
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I want to say that plainly on the first page, because there are a great many picture books in this aisle and most of them will not help you.
A picture book shows you a hundred pretty heads of hair and leaves you to guess which one belongs on your shoulders. You take it to the salon, you point at a photograph of a woman with a different face, a different frame, and hair with twice the density of yours — and thirty years of experience behind the chair tells your stylist she cannot give you that. She says so gently, or she does not say so at all and gives you something in the neighborhood. You go home disappointed and cannot say why.
I have been cutting hair since 1988. I trained in a Chicago salon where the owner made every apprentice spend six months doing nothing but shampooing and watching, because she said you cannot cut a head you have not learned to look at. I have owned my own chair, worked in a hospital wig program, cut hair in a retirement community for eleven years, and spent the last stretch of my career teaching younger stylists how to talk to women over sixty — which most of them, through no fault of their own, were never taught.
I do not think there is one perfect haircut for a woman of sixty, or seventy, or eighty. I think there is a haircut that fits your face, your frame, the hair you have now, and the fifteen minutes you are actually willing to spend on it in the morning. There are places in this book where I tell you a cut you may have your heart set on will not do what you want it to do. I would rather tell you that here, for the price of a book, than have you find out in a chair.
Every problem below is the same problem: choosing a haircut from a picture instead of from your own measurements. Here is the same decision, made both ways.
Read Part One before Part Two. Part One is where you find out what you are working with; Part Two is where you match it to a cut. Most women find between four and nine cuts that fit them.
Twelve habits, every one of them free to fix. The dead-center part. Cutting to the widest point of the face. The flat back of the head. Thinning shears on fine hair. Over-layering thin hair. And the two rules about long and short hair that are both nonsense.
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"I have been guessing at my face shape for forty years and I had it wrong. Ten minutes with a sewing tape and my six words, and suddenly six of the sixty cuts were obviously mine. I took the script card to my appointment and my stylist asked where I got it."
Patricia M. · Ohio
"The neck measurement. Nobody in fifty years of appointments has ever measured my neck, and it explained every bob that never sat right on me. I moved the length two inches and I look like myself again."
Denise R. · Arizona
"I said the sentence about thinning shears out loud for the first time in my life. She put them down. My fine hair has not looked this thick since I was fifty-five, and I did not spend a dollar to get there."
Joanne T. · Kent, UK

I have been cutting hair since 1988. Chicago, mostly — one salon, then my own chair, then eleven years cutting in a retirement community, which is where I learned nearly everything in this book.
The women in that community taught me the thing the training never did: that a haircut is not a style, it is a fit. It fits a face, a frame, a neck, a density, and a morning. Change any one of those and the same cut stops working — and after sixty, three of them change at once, slowly, without ever announcing themselves. That is why a cut you have loved for fifteen years can quietly turn on you.
I spent the last stretch of my career teaching younger stylists how to talk to women over sixty. Most of them were never taught. They are not unwilling, they simply have four minutes and no framework, and so does the woman in the chair. So I wrote the framework down. All six chapters of the fitting, all sixty cuts with their honest limits, and the words — because the words are the part everyone is missing.
You always knew what you wanted. Nobody ever handed you the words.

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No, and I say so on the first page. A picture book shows you a hundred pretty heads of hair and leaves you to guess which one belongs on your shoulders. This is the reasoning underneath — six chapters that tell you what you are working with, then sixty cuts described the way a stylist thinks about them: shape, face, frame, hair, where it fails, what to say, and what it costs to keep. Every recommendation is a professional opinion from thirty-eight years behind the chair, not a rule.
There are six, and everybody is one of them or between two of them. Chapter 1 settles it with four tape measurements rather than a look in the mirror, because almost everybody guesses wrong — and the ones who guess wrong most confidently are the ones who were told something at a make-up counter years ago.
A video gives you one cut in ten minutes and no way to find it again on the morning of your appointment. This is all sixty in one place, in the order the decision actually happens — fitting first, catalog second, chair third — with the density requirement, the skip-if line, and the exact sentence to say, which is the part that never fits in a video.
Because it is a PDF, and it costs me nothing to hand you one more copy. One bad haircut costs more than this book and takes eight months to grow out. I would rather the reasoning travelled. $47 is what it goes to when the launch promo ends.
A single PDF, 143 pages, delivered the moment you order. Read it on a phone, tablet or laptop, or print the pages you need. The three appendix worksheets are meant to be printed and written in — the Salon Script Card especially, which is designed to be copied onto a card and carried in your handbag.
There is a whole group of cuts built for fine and low-density hair (Group F), and a chapter on volume built at the root, and both of them contradict a good deal of standard advice. But I will be plain with you: a haircut is cosmetic. If your hair is shedding suddenly, thinning in patches, coming out at the root in clumps, or your scalp is sore, scaly or changed in appearance, please see a physician or a board-certified dermatologist. Chapter 27 says exactly that, at length, and tells you when to stop reading books and go.
That is the first of the twelve mistakes, and it is the least deliberate of them. Nothing went wrong — your hair changed underneath a cut that was fitted to different material, and the fit drifted so slowly that no single morning was the morning it stopped working. Do the ten-minute fitting. You may find that the cut you have is still right and only the length needs moving an inch.
That is what sixty cuts, the ten-minute fitting and the words to say in the chair cost you today. One bad haircut costs more than this and takes eight months to grow out.
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